Trip of a Lifetime
NFCYM’s and CYFUSA’s executive director, Bob McCarty, and his wife, Maggie, are preparing for their once-in-a-lifetime journey to Mount Everest this April. Bob and Maggie’s love of rock climbing and ministry has often crossed paths as they annually lead a wilderness retreat for adults. As in the past, the lines of personal pursuit and ministry are coming together again for the benefit of Catholic youth ministry in the United States. We are graced by their generosity especially as the trip is fully funded by them.
An Interview with Maggie and Bob
Before leaving, the McCartys were asked about the upcoming trip, the CYFUSA campaign, and their expectations and preparations. The following is excerpted from that interview.
Links for Further Information
Continue the Story: The CYFUSA Connection...
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1 | April 5: Kathmandu (4,500 feet)
We meet the other members of our trekking tour. We are a total of 13 people, six of whom are with the McCarty party. We come from the US, Australia, and Europe. We receive a briefing in the late afternoon, and have an evening meal to meet our fellow trekkers.
Day 2 | April 6: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nepal is a country rich in religious diversity. In the morning, we will participate in an organized sightseeing tour, where we will visit Bodhnath Stupa, one of the biggest Buddhist shines in the world, where we will observe Buddhist monks in prayer in the monasteries surrounding the stupa. We will also visit Pashupatinath, the most famous Hindu temple in the country, located on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. We were observe Hindu holy men (sadhus) meditating, pilgrims bathing, and occasionally funeral pyers burning. The afternoon is free for exploring Kathmandu and the surrounding valley.
Day 3 | April 7: Flight to Lukla (9,283’)
overnight in Phakding (8,701’)
(Trekking: 3–4 hours, Elevation loss 600’)
In the early morning we take the spectacular 40 minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (9,200 ft), flying parallel to giant Himalayan mountains bordering Nepal and China (Tibet). We land at an airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpas in the mid-1960s. After landing we have time to explore the village while our Sherpa crew sort and load our trekking equipment. In the afternoon we begin our trek by descent towards the Dudh Kosi River where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar. We end the first day in Phakding.
Day 4 | April 8: Monjo (9,300’)
(Trekking: 3 1/2 hours, Elevation gain: 900’)
From Phadkding we cross the river and head up the valley, following porters from the south that are ferrying supplies to Namche Bazaar. The early morning air is crisp as the sun won’t rech the bottom of the Dudh Kosi Valley until mid-morning. The trail keeps close to the river valley and is lined with beautiful blue pine and rhodendron forests that are spectacular in the spring months when the flowers are in bloom. The trail wanders through rolling terrain, past traditional homes, plowed fields and forest while we slowly ascend. We arrive at the village of Monjo in time for lunch. We will spend the night in Monjo. The afternoon is free, giving us opportunity to do some exploring around the village and to aid in acclimatization. Today we get tantalizing glimpses of Thamserku (21,856’) and other snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Day 5 | April 9: Namche Bazaar (11,300’)
(Trekking 4 hours, Elevation gain: 1,800 feet)
Today the walking is a little tougher and includes a steep ascent to Namche Bazaar, largest Sherpa village . From Monjo it is a short walk to the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park, before we cross the Dudh Kosi River to Jorsale (2805m). The trek continues upstream on generally flat terrain, crossing back to the right bank to the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and Dudh Kosi Rivers, where we start the steep climb to Namche Bazaar, the primary staging area for major Himalayan expeditions. After crossing a large and stable suspension bridge high above the river, we slowly ascend at a steady pace. It is along this trail that Mt. Everest comes into view for the first time! After arriving in Namche Bazaar, we enjoy lunch and the afternoon is free to bargain in the shops for Tibetan artifacts or simply relax and marvel at the beautiful scenery.
Day 6 | April 10: Namche Bazaar (11,300’)
(Acclimatization Day)
We remain at Namche Bazaar for a second night to allow for proper acclimatization to the altitude. Namche is a prosperous village situated in a large protected hollow with an abundant water supply. It gained its importance during the period when Tibetan salt was traded for the lowland grains of Nepal. Today a limited amount of trade still exists at Namche and Tibetans are often seen in the village trading rugs and Chinese-made goods, clothing, salt and dried meat.
We will view both the sunrise and sunset from the National Park headquarters above the village where we will have stunning panoramic views of the Khumbu peaks and Mt. Everest (29,035’). We’ll also view the displays on Sherpa lifestyle and culture and a mountaineering display at the Park’s headquarters.
Day 7 | April 11: Thyangboche (12,761’)
(Trekking: approx 6 hours)
From Namche Bazaar, we climb towards the park headquarters and follow a contouring trail high above the Dudh Kosi River. Above Namche the route to Thyangboche becomes visible with the monastery seen nestling below the summit of Everest and surrounded by other Himalayan peaks. While walking we’ll see local wildlife including the beautiful Danfe pheasant, often seen among the birch and silver fir forest, and Himalayan Thar mountain goat, on the high ground above the trail. After reaching the reforestation nursery at Trashinga, the trail drops steeply before crossing the Dudh Kosi River at Phunkitenga (3250m) where we take lunch. In the afternoon we ascend, initially steeply, through pine, fir, black juniper and rhododendron forests towards Thyangboche. The monastery and our lodge are located in a beautiful meadow surrounded by towering Himalayan peaks in a truly peaceful and tranquil setting. The most notable peaks seen from here are Kantega, Ama Dablam (22,943’ and perhaps the most beautiful peak in the region) and, of course, Mount Everest.
Day 8 | April 12 | Easter Sunday: Pangboche (13,030)
According to legend, Thyangboche Monastery was founded in the 17th century by Lama Sange Dorjee, who came from Tibet’s Rongphu Monastery. Thyangboche was destroyed by an earthquake in 1933, rebuilt and again badly damaged by fire in 1989. Construction of the present monastery was completed in 1992. We’ll spend the morning visiting the monastery – the oldest in the Everest region, and a nearby museum. Later in the morning we descend through alpine forests to the settlement of Deboche, where there is a convent, and then through to Milingo to cross a bridge over Imja Khola. From here the trail gradually climbs up, with great views of Ama Dablam, to the village of Pangboche where we stop for the night. In the afternoon we visit the village of Upper Pangboche. We then head of towards a ridge below Tawache to aid our acclimatisation before returning to our lodge.
Day 9 | April 13: Dingboche (14,400’)
(Trekking: approx 4 hours)
Today we have a pleasant walk, ascending gradually high above the Imja Khola River and passing the tea houses at Orsho before crossing the river and old glacial moraines on our way to our lodge in the settlement of Dingboche, the highest permanent Sherpa settlement in the region. The scenery is spectacular and although Everest here disappears behind the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge, the huge peaks that tower above the eastern end of the valley are ample compensation. We are now almost completely above the tree-line and, in clear conditions, can look out for spectacular sunsets here and on Ama Dablam. Today’s walk is quite tiring due to the altitude.
Day 10 | April 14: Dingboche (14,400’)
(Rest and Acclimatization Day)
Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of small fields enclosed by stone walls protecting the crops of barley and potatoes from the cold winds. It is occupied mainly through the monsoon months, when large numbers of yaks are brought here to graze in the valley pastures. Behind our lodge the huge rock faces of Taweche seem to soar to the heavens. The views are fantastic in this valley; the towering south face of Lhotse to the north, Island Peak in the centre of the valley and the fluted ice walls of unnamed peaks that line the southern end of the valley, all form a hauntingly beautiful sight. In the afternoon a hike up the hill behind our lodge will enable us to view the world's fifth highest mountain, Makalu (8481m), which is not visible from the valley floor.
Day 11 | April 15: Lobuje (16,270’)
(Trekking: approx 6½ hours. Elevation gain 2,100’)
In the morning we ascend the small ridge behind the village above Pheriche Valley. From the top, Taweche (21,463’) and Cholatse (21,128’) make for a striking scene as they seem to lean forwards from across the valley in the west. To the north, Lobuje Peak (20,075’) and the snowfields of Cho La dominate the skyline. The walking is now generally fairly flat on wide-open fields. Late in the morning we cross the Khumbu Khola at Dughla (4620m) and take a light lunch at the foot of the huge terminal moraines of Khumbu Glacier, which flows off Everest. In the afternoon, there is a solid and quite steep climb on a rocky trail to the top of the moraines. On the crest of the ridge, we pass a line of memorial cairns, built in memory of Sherpas and other climbers who have died on the various Everest expeditions over the last 50 years. From here the view is spectacular - Pumori (7145m), Lingtren (6697m), Khumbutse (6623m) and, across the border in Tibet, Changtse (7550m), are seen at the head of the valley whilst Everest remains hidden behind the towering walls of Nuptse and Lhotse. We then follow the valley stream to our lodge at Lobuje, arriving early afternoon. Today is a tiring day but the fantastic scenery makes it all very worthwhile.
Day 12 | April 16: Gorak Shep (17,100’) to Everest Base Camp (17,600’)
(Trekking: approx 3 hours to Gorak Shep, 5 hours round trip to Everest Base Camp. Elevation gain to camp is 900’)
As the trek to Gorak Shep is relatively short, we have the opportunity for a leisurely breakfast before beginning the day’s walk. From Lobuje we follow the broad valley that runs parallel to Khumbu Glacier. A gradual ascent enables us to build the slow, steady rhythm required when walking at high altitude. When we reach the moraines of Changri Nup Glacier, we make a series of small ascents and descents over a rocky trail lined with cairns that leads eventually to the surprising glacial sands of Gorak Shep (17,100’) - reached after about three hours of walking. This tiny “village” consists of a couple of small stone huts residing in the shadow of Kala Patar (18,190’). After a quick bite we gear up accordingly to head off towards the Everest Base Camp. The trek to the base camp can be achieved in around three hours and we will almost certainly encounter yaks and porters supplying food and equipment to expeditions here. From Everest Base Camp we do not get views of Mount Everest, but we are able to see the notorious Everest Ice Fall that flows from the Western Cwm, which is regarded as technically the hardest and most dangerous section of the mountain. The return journey from the Base Camp to Gorak Shep takes the same amount of time.
Day 13 | April 17: Kala Patar to Pheriche (14,200’)
(Trekking: approx 8 hours)
We wake up early the next day for the trek to Kala Patar (18,190’) to experience sensational sunrise views from this amazing vantage point. From the lodge the ascent is quite steep. It is a tough walk because of the altitude, but the view from the top surpasses the wildest imagination. It will probably take a good hour and a half to reach the summit from Gorak Shep. Pumori, Nuptse, Changtse, Ama Dablam, Taweche, Kantega and Everest, the highest mountain in the world, surround us. About three kilometres away and some 200 metres below, the area of the Everest Base Camp can be seen in a bowl at the bottom of the Khumbu Ice Fall. The descent back down to Gorak Shep is easy. After breakfast we set off to Lobuche and Thugla, where we stop for lunch. After lunch we cross the Khumbu Khola and head down the valley below Cholatse to Pheriche, where we stop for the night.
Day 14 | April 18: Thyangboche (11,000’)
(Trekking: approx 3 hours)
Today is a relatively short day so that we can spend the afternoon visiting the monastery at Thyangboche. There is a trekkers’ aid post in Pheriche run by the Himalayan Rescue Association, which is well worth a visit if open. From Pheriche we cross the Khumbu Khola River and ascend a short steep trail to the top of a small ridge for great views of Imja Valley, Ama Dablam and Kantega. We then descend to the small settlements at Orsho and Shomare before passing through Lower Pangboche to reach the suspension bridge over the Imja Khola River to ascend to our lodge at Thyangboche.
Day 15 | April 18: Namche Bazaar (11,300’)
(Trekking: approx 5 hours)
After breakfast we descend steeply through beautiful forest of juniper, rhododendron and fir to Phunkitenga. After a welcome break and perhaps a cup of tea we cross the Dudh Kosi river and ascend to Trashinga. From here the trail contours high above the valley through Shanasa, where we have the option of visiting Kunde and Khumjung villages before returning to Namche Bazaar where we spend the night.
Day 16 | April 19: Phakding (8,701’)
(Trekking: approx 4 hours)
We enjoy a leisurely departure from Namche Bazaar with a final opportunity to visit the shops in the bazaar before we descend steeply down to the large suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi River. We follow the trail through Jorsale and back to Monjo, where we take lunch. In the afternoon it is a short walk via Benkar through blue pine and rhododendron forest, with great views of Kusum Kangaru, back to our lodge in Phakding.
Day 17 | April 20: Lukla (9,283’)
(Trekking: approx 3½ hours)
This is our last day of trekking, where it is only a short walk on the valley before making the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. We then take lunch at our lodge and the afternoon is free to wander around, relax or perhaps enjoy a hot shower! In the evening we enjoy a farewell dinner, followed by a few celebratory drinks and dancing with our Sherpa companions.
Day 18 | April 21: Kathmandu (4500’)
We rise early in the morning to be ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel.
Day 19 | April 22: Kathmandu (4500’)
We have a further day in Kathmandu for sightseeing, shopping and exploring the bazaars and markets. Located in the south of the city, Patan is also worth a visit with its own Durbar Square full of historic structures and statues of past kings.
Day 20–22 | April 23–25: Kathmandu (4500’)
The trip officially ends on April 24, but we will stay an extra day for sightseeing and rest before our long journey back to the United States.
Thanks to Maggie McCarty for preparing this itinerary and converting meters to feet in the destinations and climbs.